Model 4000 Welder
- 13 Foot Coaxial Cable Standard Hand Unit
- Maximum Voltage 115 VAC
- Maximum Current 18 AMPS
- Frequency 27.12 M.C.
- Radio Frequency Certificate Attached Penetrates 2 ½ inches of wood
- Designed for factory production
- Model 4000 Shipping weight 164 lbs.
1. Dielectric Heating – The theory of Dielectric Heating is based on the fact that disturbed water molecules cause friction, and therefore, create HEAT. The disturbance is caused by very high frequency cycle change (twenty seven million times per second), which moves the water molecules of glue at such a tempo that the friction generates heat, and the glue bond is complete. The WorkRite Welder will work with any water-based glue on today’s market. Because of the heat generated in the glue line, we recommend pre-catalyzed glue, which achieves faster and stronger results (i.e. Kor Lok, Titebond II, and Wonderbond). When you see steam in the glue joint or approximately 5 seconds (never more than 10 seconds) has elapsed, move on. Never overheat your glue, it becomes weak. The WorkRite Welder has been certified to pass all occupational and controlled exposure standards set fourth by the code of Federal Regulations No. WRK-001A. It is registered and fully described in a report filed with the FCC. If arcing occurs STOP! Arcing will harm components and overheat expensive 810 power tubes! Arcing may be caused by: Hand Unit out of tune. Electrode feet touching metal. Electrode feet touching glue line.
2. Using the Hand Unit The WorkRite Electronic hand unit has been designed to be rugged, lightweight, and versatile. Its primary function is applying the electronic energy to the glue joint. The inside of the hand unit consists of a large coil of many turns with a larger single link coil around it. This inside 14-turn coil is called the “Turning Coil”. The single outside coil is the “Pickup Coil”. THE “TURNING COIL” AND THE “PICKUP COIL” SHOULD NOT TOUCH EACH OTHER OR ARCHING WILL OCCUR. There are six metal plates inside the hand unit. Two of these plates are stationary and four are moveable. Moving the thumb-tuning level forward or backward achieves high heat ranges shown on the milli-amp meter. This is similar to tuning in a radio station on your radio. Moving the thumb-tuning lever on the hand unit allows the operator to change from one size project to another quickly and at the same time, be assured of maximum heat. Whenever you change from one type of material to another, the material width varies or the amount of glue used changes, the tuning lever must be moved to compensate for the change in load. Moving the thumb lever is necessary for each weld. This will continue to give you the highest heat possible. To attain high heat on wider projects, position feet with a wider space between them (farther apart from each other). The small electrode feet will attain high head on wider projects because they are farther apart from each other. In some cases using one small and one flat electrode will give best results. Note: Placing a narrow piece of wood under the electrode feet will generally help to tune in higher heat. The energy will penetrate through 2 ½ inches. Do not allow arcing at glue line. • The electrode feet DO NOT have to touch or come in contact with your project or the glue line to operate. • The heat zone is between the electrode feet. • Maximum tuning can be obtained by spacing the electrode feet farther apart. • Experiment with the electrode feet in different gap positions using the position that offers the most electronic heat into the joint to be set. Usually the widest position should be used on wide heavy boards, and the narrow position on small narrow boards. • Always try to keep the panel meter at a medium to high reading. • Maximum heat is indicated in two ways: the panel meter, and the glow lamp on the hand unit (most convenient). • When either the panel meter or the glow lamp is at their maximum, you are now receiving the greatest amount of electronic heat. • Set time averages 5 seconds, but no longer than 10 seconds. • Moving the tuning lever forward or backward varies the electronic heat. It is similar to tuning in a radio station. Note: We recommend, before using your hand unit on a regular job, to try the above application steps with two scraps of wood.
3. Edge Gluing Step 1: Apply glue to one or both edges depending on the condition of the wood. Step 2: Apply ample side pressure using bar clamps or other means. Step 3: Always place the electrode feet across the glue line on all joints (where the glue line is exposed). Step 4: Press trigger switch and move tuning lever to maximum heat. Step 5: Allow glue to stop boiling. Three to five seconds will usually suffice on woods like soft pine. Five to seven seconds of the heavier, denser woods. Never more than ten seconds. Step 6: Weld about every eight inches apart and near each end. Step 7: Release side pressure. Board is ready for use and may be worked right away.
4. Faceframes and similar joints Step 1: Apply glue to end grain part of joint or into dowel hole. Step 2: Apply pressure with bar clamps. Step 3: Place electrode feet across the glue line and press trigger switch on hand unit. Step 4: Heat a few seconds. Over heating will over dry the glue and it will be a weak joint. Step 5: using dowels, spines or other type lock joints are highly recommended. Step 6: When the facing is to be added to the front of a cabinet, you may find it more applicable to leave the lock type joint out. When the cabinet will support the face frame, the dowels are no longer adding strength. We suggest welding an end grain joint to a side grain, apply glue to the end grain, apply heavy pressure, and then set the joint. Note: If the facing must stand any great stress, support any weight or will be subject to any extensive abuse, we recommend using a dowel. Always allow the glue to cool a few minutes before releasing pressure. Cool glue is stronger than hot glue.
5. Recommended Glues • All water based glue • Franklin Glue Company • Multibond - Titebond II • National Adhesives • Kor - Lok • Urea Resin Types The glues listed above are but a few of the many types that may be used with success. It may be stated that any Urea or Resorcinol Resin should give satisfactory results, as will cross-link polyvinyl adhesives. The welder heats the water in these glues to cause it to set. Some glues of the type mentioned above require a high pressure while others require only minimal pressure. If a glue problem arises it is best to contact your local adhesive representative and they will answer your questions. Remember that overheating any glue will make it become less strong. Never weld longer than 10 seconds maximum time. Polyvinyl resins, and ready mixed white glue, can be used under certain conditions. Your project should remain clamped under strong pressure until the joint cools. It will cool in about 2 minutes.
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